Roti and Ricefields

Greetings from Galen

ANNOUNCEMENTS

Since my last entry, the floodwaters have all receded or perhaps I should say have continued on down to empty into the city of Bangkok, a massive city still reeling from flooding. But up here, the monsoon season has departed and we are blessed with lovely weather-delightfully sunny days with cool mornings and rather chilly evenings.

Roti and Ricefields

Soon after moving out of Chiang Mai into the countryside, we kept seeing a young lad bicycling his small roti shop from one end of this vast valley of rice fields to the other; he seems never in a hurry, stopping only to prepare roti for the local farmers that live in the area and the occasional farang like myself.

For those of you who don’t know a roti from a goatee, it’s an Indian flat bread, but here in Thailand it’s often called ‘Thai pancake’, served as a sweet dessert. Usually the vendors are from India, Bangladesh,  or Burma, which has a rather large Indian and Indian mix population.

The raw unleavened bread balls are prepared in advance, then flattened with the palm of the hand, spun out a bit like a good pizza dough until it’s very thin. The word roti comes to us from the Sanskrit word रोटिका (roṭikā), and means bread. (thank you,Wikipedia).

The bread is then placed in a hot, flat pan with a bit of oil and butter. An egg is often added, followed by sweeten, condensed milk…if you like. Often a banana is added instead of the egg, or with the egg. The roti is folded and then an optional final dusting of sugar is offered. A diet dessert it is not. Without the condensed milk and sugar, it would be more like a pancake omelette. In the image below, with the egg yolk miraculously assuming the shape of a heart, one might imagine the entire concoction good for you. I suspect it isn’t. But it looks tasty…and it is.

About a year ago, at the age of sixteen, this young lad, whom I shall call A, managed to scrape together enough money to buy passage in a car filled with others in a similar situation – one of extreme poverty. They arrived here from Bangladesh after traveling several days overland through Burma. When he first arrived, he found a job working in a motorbike repair shop. He saved enough money to buy a used bicycle onto which he adapted a make-shift roti shop and set himself up in business. Though A. has never been to school, he quickly learned the Thai language and Chang Lek assisted me in my interview.

He lives in a small room for which he pays 1200 baht (40 US$) a month. Other than an uncle who lives in the area, he’s completely on his own, living alone and quite capable of managing the simplicities of his life. He’s on the road by 8 am each morning, seven days a week, working until 5 pm, but because he travels on his bicycle shop, he often doesn’t get home until 9 or 10 pm. Occasionally his bicycle chain will break and then he must physically push the shop back home which takes several additional hours. A. indicated that he generates, after paying for supplies – eggs, flour, butter, sweetened condensed milk, and sugar – about 300 baht a day (10 US$) which is the current official minimum standard wage in these parts.

In spite of being only seventeen, a boy still in most cultures, he wears the look of someone far older and even though he smiles easily and generously, there is something deep and serious radiating from the depth of his eyes, as if he’s already lived a long life.

He explained to us that he left because there was no opportunity for him back home and within the crushing weight of poverty and overpopulation, no one seems to care.

Given his circumstances, I asked him whether he had any hopes or plans for the future. He smiled broadly. Yes, in the future, perhaps he would replace the bicycle with a small motorbike…perhaps. And, maybe, even one day he would own two or three traveling roti shops and rent them out. But for now he said he’s quite happy with his life, peddling through the countryside, enjoying the wide space and quiet company of the rice fields and the freedom of his thoughts.

The Buddha said, “There is no fire like greed, no crime like hatred, no sorrow like separation, no sickness like hunger of the heart, and no joy like the joy of freedom.”

Blessings  to all, Galen



 

PROJECT PANOMLAND

View of the Mae Rim river during a more gentle month of weather

Many of my friends look at me with cocked eyes—that ‘Is he out of his mind?’ look—when I tell them I’m building what could be my final nest so close to a river in a land known for flooding and that I would attempt the project at the beginning of the rainy season. They’re perfectly right to do so, but on the other hand there are some advantages, both esthetic and practical. Esthetically, it’s a lovely location, at least for me, and I think, in part, because the large trees that canopy up and out over the river with the vast fields beyond are reminiscent of my childhood on the coast of Georgia with those grand live Oaks bowing to the salt marshes of the Atlantic ocean. Here’s a few photographs of the progress.

view from the upper main floor in progress

And having begun building the place in the rains, with occasional flooding, has given me a good bit of insight as to what I should do and should not do. As of this posting, this is the most severe flooding in at least thirty years and it is surprising to see how many people have built without retaining or remembering the traditional building designs of their predecessors who built houses from teak and always far off the ground not only to accommodate occasional flooding but  also for keeping the interior dwelling cooler.

early construction

future studio or river boat launch pad

Today teak is scarce and prohibitively expensive so my simple temple is constructed of concrete, steel and tile for the roof. It’s material with which the local builders/ workers are most efficient at constructing, and in my case, I’ve set the place on rather tall concrete stilts and, yes, I will invest in a small boat.

The workers are all legally documented Thai Yai, a Burmese ethnic group, and all speak fluent Thai. Dtao, ‘the boss’ and the rest of the crew are quite proficient at doing all parts of the construction. However I’ll do the final interior finish work along with Lek’s assistance.

They erected, on site, a temporary bivouac of bamboo and grass to live in during the 5-6 months of construction. In the early stages, certain Buddhist rituals were attended to bring a successful adventure and good merit for the owner… This temporary ‘Spirit House’ currently embraced by the river will stand in for the permanent one to come later. And I was recently told that the long lasting one must reside in this same location, never mind that I had planned on this spot being within a future extension of my studio.

Temporary spirit house on which the workers daily place food and flowers

crew bivouac during flood

All the crew, along with my adopted Akha family, Lek, Paan, Gam and Wei, spends most days here. As is the custom, everyone becomes one large family and meals are made with great care and from as much food source as is naturally available. On the land they find numerous green plants quite edible and certainly there is fish from the river.  Currently we’re in Cicada season, which are not related at all to locusts, as some think, but to spittlebugs and leafhoppers. These incredibly edible creatures are perhaps the world’s noisiest insects. In the evenings, the young men take small flashlights and locate the burrows where the cicadas also bivouac, dig them out and then fry them up. Aroi aroi (delicious, delicious) they tell me. I’ve yet to try one but I’ve had the local ‘rot duan’ which are small white grubs that inhabit the interior of bamboo stalks. These too are often fried, and in both taste and appearance, not unlike a small French fry.

While this cicada looks like its been sweating from making too much noise, its really thawing out. I found it perched in my freezer. How did it get there? Who knows? I took it outside to photograph.

The floods have rather damaged the bamboo bivouac and more storms are predicted. It appears that ‘project Panomland’ is going to be delayed a bit more.

These look like rather primitive crutches. They are. They are used to hold up the concrete beams and floor during construction.

Working so close with Dtao and crew, everything having to be translated through Lek, can be frustrating. But it keeps everything wonderfully organic in the shaping of things. And to be close to the source of so much of the material, where it comes from, how it’s made and used and to witness the various methods of construction, which often seem very primitive by modern Western standards yet produce perfectly good results, all of these ingredients of building ones home keep it, for me, well within the realm of art-making; I find that delightfully satisfying.

The nearby brick factory and kiln.

Crew members No Problem and Kidtee watch over the tools during the flooding but still continue to set bricks for the walls on the upper level

Nearby rice fields

The floods have dictated a break. I’ll post this and send an update in a few months.

Many good blessings to all

Galen

A WAR THAT COUNTS: Homelessness and Poverty in the United States

For a while now a good friend of mine in Seattle has been sending me photographic portraits of homeless men and women he encounters around his small office in the Ballard area of the city. While the imagery cannot hide the dreariness of their situation, what my friend tries to convey in the portraits is a sense of commonality, a shared humanity. Most of us will cross the street in order to avoid confronting a homeless person. We certainly almost never wish to make eye contact with such a person, whose circumstances of life, for whatever reason, terrifies us. But my friend is an unusual individual, selfless and sensitive to the plights of others. He is not afraid to engage with the homeless, to inquire about their life, where they come from, and what might have been the circumstances that brought them such desolation, hunger, and an abject sense of being. For surely to look deeply into the eyes on any of us we find a bit of all of us. We cannot escape ourselves.

Photograph by Rex Hohlbein

Like my friend, there are many who are well aware that such a preponderance of privation in our country represents a societal illness becoming more and more difficult to ignore. In a way, the great ‘State of Homeless’ represents a completely separate state; think of it as the fifty-first state, the boundaries of which extend westward beyond the State of California, eastward beyond the shores of the Atlantic ocean, as far north as the Arctic circle, and as far south as the earth’s equator. It is a landless state, seamlessly woven throughout all states; one of desperation, poverty, and hunger with a population estimated roughly the same as the state of Connecticut’s 3.5 million people. At any given time, slightly over ten percent of our population is homeless. And it grows. It is difficult, of course, to know exactly what the real numbers are or how many children go to bed hungry each night in this country.

Funding for programs specifically designed to help America’s poor and hungry are being cut at a time when we are simultaneously pouring money into a country with a population nearly identical with our ‘State of Homeless’. Since the onset of the Libyan conflict, we have spent over half a billion dollars with an expected continuation of 40 million a month without any guarantee of an outcome other than it feeds enormously the military-industrial complex and global corporate interests. This figure pales compared to the money we’ve spent in Iraq and Afghanistan, billions of that unaccounted for. It has been estimated that the money spent in these uncertain wars could have eradicated poverty and homelessness in the United States for the next century.

We would all do well to read, again and again, President’s Eisenhower’s 1961 farewell speech. Equally important as his warning about the danger of allowing the military-industrial complex (corporatism) to grow too large, are those words found in his closing paragraph. “We pray that peoples of all faiths, all races, all nations, may have their great human needs satisfied; that those now denied opportunity shall come to enjoy it to the full; that all who yearn for freedom may experience its spiritual blessings; that those who have freedom will understand, also, its heavy responsibilities; that all who are insensitive to the needs of others will learn charity; that the scourges of poverty, disease and ignorance will be made to disappear from the earth, and that, in the goodness of time, all peoples will come to live together in a peace guaranteed by the binding force of mutual respect and love.”

He also wrote, “In this final relationship, the Congress and the Administration have, on most vital issues, cooperated well, to serve the national good rather than mere partisanship, and so have assured that the business of the Nation should go forward. So, my official relationship with the Congress ends in a feeling, on my part, of gratitude that we have been able to do so much together.” Today we can hardly imagine such cooperation for the greater good of the American people.

We would be foolishly in denial to believe there is no direct correlation between our wars and our homeless. Nor should we ignore the enormous percentage of US veterans who find themselves bereft and discarded, living in poverty on the streets.

There was a time, not so long ago, in this country and in others, those afflicted by poverty and hunger could come to a home in search of charity-a barn or back porch in which to sleep, a hot meal, kind words, and perhaps a day or two of work. Today most of us believe homeless people are nothing more than derelicts, alcoholics, mentally unstable, human debris.

The truth is quite different; the leading cause of homelessness is unaffordable shelter. The absence of jobs and low wages are other contributors of homelessness. Within the ‘State of Homeless’, there is also a high rate of mental illness and alcoholism. However with better education, social services and the availability of decent and affordable health care much of these contributing factors are treatable and the consequences of homelessness and anti-social behavior could be better prevented. In a way, it is an ongoing social conundrum. For thousands of families living on the edge, stress is a crippling factor disintegrating the bonds that are necessary for healthy family cohesion; studies have shown that stress alone can trigger the on-set of devastating psychoses in children. Many men and women, living on the streets today, diagnosed with mental illness, could have been treated at an early age and still could be.

Photograph by Rex Hohlbein

We blame one another to such an extent that the concept of ‘government’ has become an alien and negative separate entity. But ultimately is there anyone to blame but us? A man who falls asleep at the wheel and crashes into a tree, should not blame the car or the tree.

If government is less or more than the common rulebook agreed upon by the majority, the pages sewn together by democratic principals to protect the commonality of all, we have failed. When millions of our children suffer hunger and poverty in a country as wealthy as the United States, we have failed.

Rather than fighting foreign wars, which ultimately serve the already full coffers of the rich, our focus should be on wars against homelessness, poverty, and hunger in our own country. Our most effective weapon is our voice and our vote and we must fight for those who can’t.

Photograph by Rex Hohlbein

* The three photographic portraits in this blog were taken by my friend Rex Hohlbein. As part of his Seattle’s Homeless Project, ‘Homeless In Seattle’ he’s developing an idea of posting specific jobs that need to be done in the neighborhood that will benefit the homeless, such as fixing the drinking fountain where  they often wash up and get a drink. Bids will be gotten from general contractors to implement the work;  a PayPal account will be established to allow people to donate  toward the project. This is a remarkably positive idea because it allows all of us not only to help those in need but to be responsible, in part, for the maintenance of our city. PLease visit his site where Rex invites you to make comments and suggestions and to essentially ‘get involved’ in issues that affect all of us.    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Homeless-in-Seattle/172003812844870.

Elephant update from baan Panom

“Animals cannot speak, but can you and I not speak for them and represent them? Let us all feel their silent cry of agony and let us all help that cry to be heard in the world.”

Rukmini Devi Arundale

Zoo officials continue to try and inseminate Chai, one of three elephants living out a rather dismal life of captivity at the Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle, Washington. They do this in spite of all evidence supporting a high probability any infant elephant from Chai would be born with the same fatal herpes virus that struck down Hansa, Chai’s previous baby. In spite of the pain and suffering inflicted upon both the infant and the mother, the zoo seems more than willing to take the chance and the reasons are all too obvious. Just as elephants suffer from being forced to serve the curiosity of humans, we too suffer, ultimately, from our peculiar rationale about zoos. The idea that zoos play a fundamental role in protecting a species while their wild counterpart veers toward extinction is fundamentally flawed and almost always promulgated for reasons that have little to do with conservation.

Elephants, like humans, are a keystone species. This means they have a huge altering impact on the environment. The way their biomass has evolved and the way they move across the earth creates essential habitats for hundreds of other species, both plants and animals, which, in turn, affects even greater numbers of species. We cannot always see it – more often, we choose not to- but nature has been crafting itself for so long through such a compelling and urgent chain of events that, once broken, once dismantled and damaged, the results are tragic. We know this. We witness it everyday.

Elephants kept in zoos, as well as most other captive creatures, no longer play an essential role in nature’s design. Nor will they ever because most cannot be successfully re-introduced into the wild. Zoos, circuses, and the variations of animal parks remain, quite frankly, what they have always been: human entertainment. It is often argued that zoos are considerably more humane than they were even half a century ago. Perhaps so, but that is hardly the point. An animal in a cage is still an animal in a cage. Can we possibly believe there is any real educational value in keeping animals in cages? Are there not better ways to educate our children about the profusion of life with which we share this earth? The only thing zoos offer children is the blighted notion that it is acceptable to capture, imprison and breed wild creatures to satisfy our curiosity, if not greed, or the idea that we can save a species by locking them up. Once you take a wild animal from its natural habitat it becomes less than it was; the natural gift of its presence within a full symbiotic spectrum becomes irredeemably altered then lost. If, for example, a last surviving Baiji Dolphin, now functionally extinct, were kept in a zoo, what purpose would it serve? Such creatures become nothing more than symbols of our utter inability to understand and properly manage what is essential to our own wellbeing. If, as some believe, we have been ordained by a supreme entity as caretakers of the land and seas and the creatures that inhabit them, we have failed epically. The world is and has long been loosing countless species from the direct impact of human expansion and exploitation and the loss grows at an alarming rate. In 2007 it was estimated that within ten years, the elephant’s survival as a wild species will possibly be beyond saving, along with the Tiger, The Asian Rhino, the Great Apes, Red and Pink Coral, the Porbeagle shark, the Spiney Dogfish, the European Eel and the Bigleaf mahogany, each one’s demise caused by poaching, over-fishing and habitat loss.

In addition to this bleak scenario, there remains a thriving business in the illegal capture and smuggling of exotic animals to satisfy the brutish whims and fantasy of a few for their personal zoos. Recently, one smuggler was caught at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok, Thailand. In his luggage were found four leopards, one Malayan sun bear, one white-cheeked gibbon, one black-tufted marmoset, an Asiatic black bear and two macaque monkeys, all babies, all alive, all destined for Dubai. It’s a safe bet to assume most smuggling goes undetected. Whether pets for the wealthy or cures for the impotent, the smuggling and slaughter go on.

Clearly, for elephants already in captivity, sanctuaries offer the best solution, though they are not perfect. Sanctuaries for animals are much like a halfway house but at least, if properly organized, monitored, and protected from human interests, sanctuaries can provide something more sacred as it applies to any creature’s concept of home. We know zoos represent a diminishment of spirit for both captive and captor. Studies have shown that most adults leaving a zoo tend to feel more unhappy than happy, as if we take with us a part of the captive’s collective sadness, wondering for what reason have we put these creatures here.

When I speak of ‘spirit’ and what is ‘sacred’ I do not use the terms biblically. I use them with the same breath of awe from which writers of the bible were themselves elevated and suspended in the ineffable mystery of the world around them. I mean them as the Blackfoot orator, Crowfoot, meant when he said “[life] is the flash of a firefly in the night. It is the breath of a buffalo in the wintertime. It is the little shadow which runs across the grass and looses itself in the sunset.”

Is there any place any longer on earth that has not been altered then damaged by the hand of man?

Thus the Native American proverb: “Things are connected. Whatever befalls the earth befalls the sons of the earth. Man did not weave the web of life. He is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself.”

It seems as if we have bartered away this sacred knowledge at our own peril.

Panom and The Stone of Light, the Book

Greetings to All

It’s been a while since I posted news. I’ve been waiting on several projects to fall into their final phase. And now they have.

As I promised a few months back, ‘Panom and the Stone of Light’ is now available through Create Space.

Panom also now has her own:
Website: www.elephantpanom.com
Facebook Page: the Panom Projects

I’m dedicating a portion of sales to HELP FREE THE ELEPHANTS in their effort to free Chai, Bamboo and Watoto. These elephants, two Asian and one African, are kept at Woodland Park Zoo under conditions that even the former Director of the zoo described as unnecessarily cruel. The elephants have already been offered a home at the elephant sanctuary in Tennessee where they’ll finally have acres in which to roam and to enjoy a larger family of elephants. Friends of the Seattle Woodland Park Zoo Elephants have worked long and tirelessly to make a difference in the lives of these three elephants. We can all help.

The Panom book will make a wonderful gift for a child (and an adult) and you can have it shipped directly to them.You can help make a difference for Chai, Bamboo and Watoto as well as help broaden a child’s understanding of the importance of these magnificent creatures and the importance of not only making life better for elephants held in captivity but protecting wild elephants in wild habitats. The more we help and protect the environment with all of its resident creatures, the more we help and protect ourselves.

From the elephants and me,
Many thanks, Galen

Ps: More ways you can help:
Check out the You Tube narration of Panom and the Stone of Light
and Panom, Cousin to the Clouds, a documentary featuring an extraordinary and compelling sound score by composer/cellist Jami Sieber, paintings by children from the school for the hearing impaired in Chiangmai, Thailand…and, of course, Panom.
We encourage and appreciate all comments.

link: to learn more about Chai, bamboo and Watoto

Back With Panom

Last week-end  Chang lek, his family and I took a trip over to Pai, Thailand, to visit my friend, Panom, the elephant. Panom resides with four other elephants at Thom’s Elephant Camp.  I went to get source photographs to use in the graphics for the ‘Panom and the Stone of Light’ e-book, which I hope to have available  in a few weeks.

Thom’s Elephant Camp is a small but popular place where  the elephants can be hired out for trekking or swims in the Pai river. Here there is no ‘big’ entertainment  show, no soccer matches between the elephants and no vast caravans of tour buses… Thom’s is located out in the country-side. The camp began with Thom’s late father, the original mahout who worked with Panom in the forest industry. When that industry died from over logging, elephants and  mahouts were out of work. Many elephants were sold into larger  elephant entertainment  centers, some were used in illegal logging and a few mahouts, like Thom’s father set up very small, out of the way camps. In fact, Thom was the first person to allow visitors to ride bareback and swim with the elephants, along with a mahout, of course.

I spent several days with my friend Panom. I can’t speak ‘elephant’ so I was unable to ask her if she remembers me from previous visits, but somehow I feel she does.

While I was ‘hanging out’ with Panom, her friend Aut, discovered  that her mahout had forgotten to connect the chain properly. She went straight for the bananas that are kept on a line for the human visitors to buy and feed them; she managed to swoosh down quite a few before the mahout reappeared.

The elephants at Thom’s are given plenty of love, food and as much freedom as one can give a captive elephant.  Before dark, like most elephant camps here, the elephants are taken by their mahout up into the mountains to forage throughout the night, eating a great deal and sleeping little.  Their mahouts are dedicated and work  seven days a week. They share a simple wooden house next to where they elephants are corralled during the day and while they share the duties, each elephant is bonded to one mahout.

Chang Lek, with my assistance, is in the planning stages of setting up tours that will begin with a trip to see Panom and friends, then venture on up further north to visit some out-of-the way  hilltribe villages, temples, and other cultural landmarks.  Look for more on that at a later posting. For those who would love to spend some time with an elephant, take a short training class on being a mahout and having a lovely swim with an elephant in the river, you’ll enjoy this. And anyone interested in spending a month with an elephant… that can be arranged as well. Stay tuned.

The elephants spend the evenings up in these hills near Pai

The One-Winged Body

SAWADEE and PANOM for the NEW YEAR.

ANNOUNCEMENTS:

I’m pleased to announce a brand new shape to my web site with new navigation features, new galleries, music and video. I would also like to introduce a new project.

THE ONE-WINGED BODY-

a collection of figurative photographs I took on Crete and in Sicily in the mid-1990’s with recent  poems by writer and poet Peter Weltner. Images are available on my site where you can also experience a video with several poems narrated by the poet.

We hope to publish a book of this collection this year and in an effort to raise production funds, we’re offering some remarkable specials you can find on my web site. There is the Portfolio Collection which has all thirteen photographs printed, mounted and signed with accompanying poems,signed by the poet, all encased in a hand-crafted black silk portfolio box. This collection is in an edition of twenty-five sets. You can also find the One-Winged Body Poster in the Poster Gallery.

This series of images and poems is not a collaboration, as such. It is a natural weaving of the creative spirit and came into being with a rich history. In the early 1980’s, I had an exhibition at Foster-White Gallery of figurative paintings done on plexiglass in a reverse process. Peter Weltner and a friend, visiting Seattle from San Francisco, saw the exhibition and each purchased a work. Several years later I had the good fortune to meet Peter in San Francisco. In 1983, I moved to Port Townsend where I first met poet Sam Hamill. On our first meeting, Sam saw the paintings and asked for slides. I accommodated. Thereafter, almost weekly, I received in the mail a poem by Sam, written as a response to one of the paintings.

This natural confluence of banded spirits eventually became a book entitled Passport and later shaped within a multi-media presentation, with music by Jon Brower and photographs by Fritz Dent.

Now, some thirty years later, Peter  recently wrote to me; we exchanged a few emails and I sent him one of the photographs. From this came the first poem. More photographs, more poems. And now, like Passport, the images and poems have become what Lewis Hyde calls “‘gift-increase’, linked by a common element of eros, or relationship, bonding, ‘shaping into one.’”

 

NEW ON THE SITE is a  short video work entitle Red Butterfly, a meditative  comment on both the brevity and fragility of a single life. The model is a close-up portrait of a young man I photographed in 1991. The startling still image flickers and flutters like a film clip from the earliest days of film. It is a paean to the sea of lives lost to AIDS and is dedicated to my brother Gray who fell in the tidal wave of the late 1980’s and to all of us affected with and by HIV/AIDS.

 

And please visit me on my new FACEBOOK PAGE where I hope to engage with both old and new friends. If you do, or if you’re here at Facebook already, I invite you to visit ‘discussions’ and also the ‘riddle page’.

If you like puzzles or riddles, and if you’d like to win a signed and shipped 10″ x 12″  limited edition image from any of the series listed in in my web site, then you can go there and check it out. Feel free to turn THE RIDDLE over, pry it apart, and even exact information from me…but it won’t be easy. You won’t find the answer on google.

OTHER PROJECTS:

Watch for developments on the E-book Panom and The Stone of Light. I hope to have this finished and available very soon. This project will help support Friends of Woodland Park Zoo Elephants in their tireless effort to free Chai, Bamboo and Watoto, and get them to the Elephant Sanctuary in Tennessee …SO THAT

COULD BE

I hope you like the new site.

Blessings and Panom,

Galen

PS: For the eagle-eyed, the word diminutive is misspelled in the riddle page within my site, but has been corrected on Facebook. It’s misspelling, by the way, is not part of the clue.

Wind at the Edge of the Heart

During the spring of 1967, on my way to lunch in the Student Union Building at University of Alaska in Fairbanks, I happened upon a recently published Popular Science magazine that featured a story about a new French invention. The article described a device that used infrasonic sound waves controlled in such a way as to emit varying degrees of intensity and, depending on the level, the weapon could cause vomiting, fainting, seizures, and even death. The scientists had discovered these ultra-low frequencies in the prevalent winds of southern France, known as the Mistrals.

I was particularly excited about stumbling across this article. As a student of painting and music, I had no interest in weapons, and, at the time, little interest in science but I was captivated with what I read. Like many young students of art, I was very much under the spell of the French Expressionist, Vincent Van Gogh. Perhaps it was the overall tragedy of his life ending so young. What other artist looms so large an archetype of a suffering, creative genius? I read everything I could get my hands on, including the letters he wrote, most of which were to his brother Theo, but to others as well. There were numerous letters to him and from others about him, particularly the French painter Paul Gauguin who briefly lived with Vincent in Arles, France.

I felt I had stumbled upon the clues to my own little Rosetta Stone. No one has ever been able to give a precise reason for Van Gogh’s journey into madness and ultimate suicide. It has often been suggested that he was epileptic. When he was clinically treated in 1889, two doctors diagnosed Vincent with epilepsy – seizures consisting of acute mania with sensory hallucinations, particularly affecting sight and hearing. However there is no indication that he suffered from epilepsy prior to his arrival in Arles. Still others have long argued that his daily intake of absinthe was essentially what drove him over the edge. Absinthe is a strong alcoholic drink made in part with a poisonous, hallucinogenic ingredient called wormwood. I tend to agree that the latter is the stronger candidate, but, in my opinion, it was a combination of everything – the absinthe, his upbringing, genetic imprints, and his environment, i.e. the winds.

In a letter to Theo, Vincent recounted that when he first arrived in Arles, as he was getting off the train, a man getting on the train advised him to return to wherever he came from because, quite simply, the people in Arles were a bit strange. This is not unusual and similar behavior has long been reported in other areas where extreme winds prevail over long periods of time, causing anxiety and depression among local residents.

It should be noted that Van Gogh did not cut off his entire ear. He merely sliced off a portion. Some say the helix, the upper part of the external ear and some say the lobule-what we call the ear lobe. In any case, doing so and sending it to a prostitute in a small box, as well as his general anti-social behavior in the small city of Arles, prompted the good citizens to lock him up in the insane asylum at nearby Saint Rémy. Sometime later, during his recovery, he asked permission to leave for the day to paint in the countryside. Earlier, during his time in Arles, it wasn’t unusual for him to spend hours each day struggling with ‘plein air’ painting, his easel staked to the ground and his canvases tied to the easel to prevent the mistrals from toppling everything over. In this case, as he was mostly recovered, the asylum allowed him a day pass. During this long afternoon of painting, the winds came up quite fiercely. It was reported that later that evening Van Gogh became terribly distraught and set about drinking his painting turpentine.

I rather doubt Vincent’s suicide can be attributable to any single event, yet I find irresistible the poetic imagery imbued in the possibility of the artist being dismantled by the winds. It isn’t a great leap of the imagination to see the mistrals appear in the paintings he painted while in Arles-the swirling energy found in the application of pigment as if he were as much hearing the un-hearable as anything he could see before him. Did he sense the destructive forces of the winds? I’m sure he did. What poignant irony that he tried to cut off the organ that helps sound enter the brain and shape our mental perceptions.

When Vincent was released from the asylum and left the south of France, he went to Auvers-sur-Oise, twenty-seven kilometers northwest of Paris and was somewhat under the care of Doctor Gachet. Within months after arriving, it is generally held that Vincent went to a small wooden shed, shot himself in the heart, collapsed, revived and returned to the Ravoux home in which he boarded. He died the following day. The daughter of Monsieur Ravoux, Adeline Ravoux, who was twelve yeas old at the time, wrote an account of the event some years later. However, buried in the original published letters, there is an account indicating that he shot himself in the groin. How can this be reconciled? One plausible explanation: The date, 1890, was during the final decade of the Victorian era. This was a period of such enormous prudishness that even pianos could not be said to have legs. Anything sexual or anything having to do with those parts of the body were immensely taboo. It’s more than likely, if Vincent’s wound had been in the groin, this would not have been discussed or divulged to the general public and certainly not to a twelve year-old girl. According to Vincent’s statement, as he lay dying, when he revived from shooting himself, he tried to find the gun to finish off the job, but could not. The gun was never found. In her accounting, Adeline suggested that Vincent did not commit suicide; that, in fact, he was murdered. By whom?

Even without medical knowledge, one could easily suppose that a man shot in the groin might survive longer than had he been shot in the heart. Obviously, had he intended the heart, he must have missed by some degree. If we assume that it was a wound in the groin, we can only wonder why there, whether self-inflicted or not. It took over thirty-seven hours for him to die in extreme pain.

There has long been a belief by many that Van Gogh was homosexual. While there is no evidence to prove this, there is no evidence to disprove it. We do know that he was enormously fascinated with fellow painter Paul Gauguin. In fact, after Gauguin left Arles, he wrote to a friend that on two occasions he woke in the middle of the night to find Vincent standing above his bed. When he asked what Vincent was doing, Vincent turned and fled out of Gauguin’s bedroom.

In her account, Adeline writes, “That Sunday he went out immediately after lunch, which was unusual. At dusk he had not returned, which surprised us very much, for he was extremely correct in his relationship with us, he always kept regular meal hours. We were then all sitting out on the cafe terrace, for on Sunday the hustle was more tiring than on weekdays. When we saw Vincent arrive night had fallen, it must have been about nine o’clock. Vincent walked bent, holding his stomach, again exaggerating his habit of holding one shoulder higher than the other. Mother asked him: ” M. Vincent, we were anxious, we are happy to see you to return; have you had a problem?”

He replied in a suffering voice: “No, but I have…” he did not finish, crossed the hall, took the staircase and climbed to his bedroom. I was witness to this scene. Vincent made on us such a strange impression that Father got up and went to the staircase to see if he could hear anything.

He thought he could hear groans, went up quickly and found Vincent on his bed, laid down in a crooked position, knees up to the chin, moaning loudly: ” What’s the matter, “said Father,” are you ill? Vincent then lifted his shirt and showed him a small wound in the region of the heart. Father cried: “Malheureaux, [unhappy man] what have you done?”

“I have tried to kill myself,” replied Van Gogh.

These words are precise; our father retold them many times to my sister and I, because for our family the tragic death of Vincent Van Gogh has remained one of the most prominent events of our life. In his old age, Father became blind and gladly aired his memories, and the suicide of Vincent was the one that he told the most often and with great precision.”

Clearly the young girl saw Vincent come in, bent over, holding his stomach and in great pain, but she did not accompany her father to the bedroom and only relies on her father’s words as to the location of the bullet wound. Thus history has recorded it.

Here remains an untold and unsolvable mystery. Did he, in fact, take his own life or did someone murder him? We have no idea where he really went nor who Vincent might have seen and under what circumstances. As it stands in history, all of this – his neural highway shattered from infrasonic sound waves and his sexual coding – might mean little in the shadow of his monumental genius and what he left us. On the other hand, it does no harm to muse upon any mystery nor the possibility that Vincent ended his life because he could not find a way to express what is most fundamental in human nature-ones sexual identity.

Societies and their cultural skins have changed remarkably in some ways from the prurient age of Queen Victoria. The 20th century ushered in radical changes, such as nuclear weapons, television, fast food and the great sexual revolution I witnessed in the 1960s. Many of us believed that out of these winds of change a paradigm would rise; something more lasting with a greater understanding of the fabulous panoply of humanity and a deeper well of tolerance for racial differences, religious and non-religious beliefs, and sexual expressions. What came seems short lived.

In the last few months, a number of young people have committed suicide and many more suffer from brutal teasing and physical abuse. The sexual blueprint of these children is given to them by the grace of nature, yet many are choosing death rather than suffer unwarranted shame and the pain of our ignorance and intolerance. Are we doomed to devolve? Our cultural trajectory is never linear and seems weighted by anxiety, doubt and fear; history reveals how mythical are men’s wings.

Whenever the winds come up, I cannot but think of Vincent toiling in his solitude beneath the intense sun of Southern France, wondering what his paintings might have been like had he not gone south and wondering, too, what more immeasurable gifts he might have left us had he, himself, not left so young.

Panom, Galen


ANNOUNCEMENTS:

Look for the launch of a new collaborative project with writer and poet Peter Weltner coming in mid-January: A book-in-progress called ‘The One-Winged Body’ along with a newly designed web site.

Everyone here at baan Panom wishes all of you a gentle and joyful Holiday Season!

* the included images are monotypes I created on my large French/American etching press during the 1990s.

A Memorial

Sangsak was Chang Lek’s sixteen year old nephew; Chang Lek , his wife Paan and his young daughter, Gam, are part of my family, my Akha family. Sangsak was killed while driving his motorbike in Chiangmai. The first question we ask is whether he had on a helmet. He did. Sangsak was driving carefully, but sadly one cannot always escape the inattention of others. In my original draft I had much to say about the cause, the needlessness of his death, the fact that the boy did not receive any medical attention for almost three hours because his parents, both Akha, could not read the forms, did not understand what was happening, and the hospital/doctor wanted to make sure that a form was signed to guarantee payment.

Lek, who speaks Thai and English, was finally notified and rushed to the  hospital but too late. Minutes later, the boy’s heart quit beating. Lek (and anyone willing to be observant in the way many humans treat the less fortunate) is all too aware that he is Akha, that his family is Akha. They are hill tribe people and exist at the very bottom of cultural stratification, easily exploited for cheap labor.

Sadly, such unfortunate circumstances thrive everywhere, sustained by greed and disregard. One can see the livid colors of intolerance and racial discrimination in every country.

I did not know him that well, only through Lek, who adored him. Sansak, a promising A student, eager for college, had an opportunity, through education, to bring a bit more light into this world.

“You do not know me,” he said, leaving, “but know
this light I carried, I carry still,
not for me
but for you.”

DON’T TRAIN ELEPHANTS, TRAIN OURSELVES / Changing the Way We Think About Our Actions

Announcements:

1. Joe Kelly was the winner of the puzzle found in ‘Seed’. Here is the puzzle and here is the answer.

“The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources.” Bartel Teisenni /Bartel Teisinni is an anagram for Albert Einstein. Consider the quote.

2. There are a number of early works by my hand from various periods and mediums being made available from a US collection. Anyone interested in seeing the PDF file of the works can write to Jim Jackson at:  jsjax@msn.com

3. The paintings included in the current blog were created by students at the school for hearing impaired, Chiangmai, Thailand. These, along with others, are featured in my film,

Panom, A Story of Elephants and Humans

DON’T TRAIN ELEPHANTS, TRAIN OURSELVES / Changing the Way We Think About Our Actions


The absolute ugliness within our species seems to ever startle me in its brutality. In this beautiful, mostly Buddhist, country of Thailand, home today to a depleted population of less than 5000 Asian elephants – in 1900 there were over 300,000 – last week another beautiful creature was murdered for its tusks. It was a young seven-year old male. A juvenile. The two men who shot the elephant in the head were in the process of trying to remove the tusks when discovered by park rangers. They escaped but not the elephant. Even without the gruesome details, almost anyone might find this to be an unconscionable act of brutality, greed and ignorance. Oh yes, the cry is loud and wide. But what about the more pervasive acts of brutality, inflicted daily upon these beautiful creatures by tourists who seem to get some satisfaction out of watching elephants perform or simply imprisoned, as they are in zoos throughout the world?
In countries that are native habitats for the Asian elephant and in which historically they have been captured and forced into labor for humans, we find an ever-growing number of elephant camps. Once mainly used in the now defunct teak logging industry, captive elephants have been relegated to entertaining humans. In the more commercial camps, which remain quite popular, the elephants must carry two or three, often heavy, humans on their backs in the traditional wooden seat called a howda or made to perform in a circus-like environment doing things that normally humans do-playing soccer or musical instruments, dancing, etc.
It would be too easy to say the owners are greedy and the visitors ignorant. After all, some owners will say they are simply trying to make a living; elephants are expensive to house and feed. I’d also wager there are plenty of tourists who see nothing wrong with watching animals performing tricks. But should not humans be trained instead of wild animals?
In truth, the camp owners have no intrinsic interest in making elephants do things they would not naturally do. They are basically supplying a demand. In fact, if a sanctuary opened next to a typical elephant camp and charged virtually the same entrance fee, I would wager most tourists given the knowledge and choice would opt for experiencing the sanctuary. Just being in the presence of one of these magnificent animals is an extraordinary experience.


In my opinion sanctuaries should be exactly that: a place of refuge from as much human activity as possible, such as the one that Carol Buckley founded in Tennessee. Unfortunately, and particularly here in Thailand, these isn’t enough funding. The best compromise is to allow the captive elephants plenty of room to roam and do what they love to do: forage and swim and communicate with each other in ways we cannot imagine. Because they have been made captive, their natural spirit broken and then force-bonded to humans, they cannot be returned to the wild, even if enough wild existed. Sadly, for captive elephants, until they die, humans will remain well within elephants’ dreams and often their nightmares.
We do have a few well-run sanctuaries being set up in Thailand by those who care. They tend to be a bit more remote and the entrance fee more expensive. However, if more visitors supported the sanctuaries and not the typical elephant entertainment centers, a healthier situation would evolve.
If you’re reading this, of course, there’s a good chance we’re in the same choir. What we need is to increase the voices of the choir and the amplitude of the music. Collectively, we need to move the song out to those who simply haven’t heard it well enough or deep enough and who don’t realize that when we use wild animals for entertainment we abuse them, we diminish considerably their natural spirit and we leave a terrible stain of disregard upon the earth and ourselves.
Another sad example can be found in the terrible way we embrace zoos as if they were national treasures. In Seattle’s Woodland Park Zoo, there are three elephants who are confined most of each year in an enclosure that, for a human, would represent an extremely small, claustrophobic closet. It is deplorable! Even though a sanctuary in the southern part of the United States (the same one that Carol Buckley founded) has agreed to take them and house them in a facility with hundreds of acres, the Woodland Park Zoo remains steadfast in their refusal to release the elephants. A dedicated Seattle group, ‘Friends of Woodland Park Zoo Elephants’, continues to try and get the elephants released and into the sanctuary, but, so far, without success. Why is it so difficult? Here is the best answer.
For zoos, elephants are the big stars, bringing in big bucks, particularly baby elephants. The zoo continues to try and breed Chai, one of the zoo’s two Asian female elephants. In 1998, Chai was previously shipped to the Dickerson Zoo in Springfield, Montana, for breeding, the result of which was the celebrated birth of baby Hansa, an absolute marketing coup for the zoo. The baby regrettably died at the young age of six. It should also be noted and not forgotten that while at the Dickerson Zoo, Chai lost 1000 pounds from stress and was severely beaten by the handlers, a ruthless act of abuse for which Dickerson Zoo had to pay a hefty fine. It is also suspected that, while at the Dickerson Zoo, Chai was infected with a herpes virus that was passed on to baby Hansa.
In light of the monetary equation, it’s not surprising the Woodland Park Zoo would like another baby elephant, in spite of the fact the herpes virus might be passed on to the next baby. This hardly matters; the simple equation is the investment return is made in the first five years of the baby’s life.
Stir into the recipe the fact that, in 1971, the director of Woodland Park Zoo made an annual salary of about $18,000.00. The annual median wage for the average American at that time was about $10,000.00, slightly more than one-half the zoo director’s salary. Today the average wage for a US citizen is about $41,000.00, $1000.00 less than the average in 2005. The current director of Woodland Park Zoo hauls in almost $250,000.00 a year, more than five times what the average citizen makes. In this new world, CEOs are paid royally to insure the ‘bottom line’ stays at the top. If you don’t think that our cultural and educational institutions have been re-fashioned with a corporate mentality, then consider that the President of Ohio State University makes a whopping $1.5 million per year, at a time when educational costs for students keeps rising and the quality of education keeps falling. What matters most to the people that run things are the people that run things.
Yet even so, in the case of Woodland Park Zoo, which belongs to the community, it is up to the citizens to make a difference. Because, finally, it is the people who decide what the ‘bottom line’ is. If we would only choose to, we can make a difference. We can write to the newspaper. We can write to the zoo. And, most affectively, we can refuse to visit the zoo until the elephants have been released.
We should ask ourselves why we imprison humans for being bad and imprison other creatures for being good. Keeping any species in unnatural confinement because we cannot protect its habitat nor provide a sanctuary is not a valid argument. It is merely a rationale motivated by greed, an unwillingness to make changes or because we are simply too lazy. It is unlikely the two men who killed the young elephant will be caught. And it is likely more elephants will die. As long as people desire to wear the teeth of an endangered species, there will always be someone at hand to do the slaughter. And as long as money is made from the imprisonment of non-human creatures for our entertainment, the cages will remain full.

Panom, Galen

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